Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

“I really want to like this place.” It’s an over-used cliche, usually written with some guilt, that often accompanies negative restaurant reviews. I’m certainly not above invoking this phrase, especially when it comes to Midway Meal House. Why? Because I do indeed want to like this place.

Who wouldn’t want to like a charming old farmhouse with a large wrap-around veranda? Who wouldn’t appreciate the history of this building? And who wouldn’t respect the Meal House’s story of rising from the ashes, literally.

I do indeed want to like Midway Meal House. I like the nostalgia I feel here, something that’s hard to find in the suburbs anymore. And I like the friendly atmosphere and hospitality. Unfortunately I cannot say much positive about their food and what they’ve done to southern cuisine.

I love the meat and two veggie format of many southern restaurants. At Midway Meal House $7.25 will let you choose from several meats and a long list of veggies plus some bread. Described by the menu as “delicious homemade vegetables,” these sides are anything but. Many taste straight from a can. Liberal applications of salt and pepper are usually necessary to make their beans, corn or instant potatoes suitable to my palate.

It is a shame that a country cooking restaurant with such history doesn’t make better use of locally grown produce.

Several years ago Midway Meal House burned. It was a fierce fire that nearly reduced the place to the foundation. They wasted little time and rebuilt. Unfortunately the owners passed up a golden opportunity to transform the restaurant into something great. The rebuild was nearly identical, leaving behind the same drab interior and a menu to match. With a new look and fresh new approach to the menu, the Meal House could have really shined. Today, not many years later, the building is starting to look rundown and dirty. It’s really a shame.

I’d imagine breakfast at Midway Meal House is a better experience, but I’ve never been in the AM. And their dessert menu, featuring truly homemade cakes and pies, deserves some recognition. But serving canned veggies is inexcusable. With south Forsyth’s restaurant scene finally coming of age, the Meal House is being left in the dust.

I welcome your comments and criticisms. But remember… I really want to like this place!

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

Popcorn? Gourmet popcorn? It may be America’s favorite snack food, but it usually isn’t mine. When the entire movie theater is binging on buckets, a handful of popcorn will satisfy me most of the time. Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate buttery/salty combinations. There’s just something about the texture of popcorn that keeps me from consuming it in significant quantity.

So I was a bit hesitant to try Alpharetta’s new popcorn joint. Yet with over 100 varieties available at Heavenly Gourmet Popcorn, I figured there must be something that would appeal to me.

And if my multiplication was correct, I counted about 120 varieties at Heavenly. A seemingly endless wall contains shelves of plastic storage bins. They appear a bit odd at first. These bins look like something you might buy at Target to store knickknacks in your basement. The rest of the store has an upscale feel but the bins do not.

Nevertheless, the bins and shelves divide 120 flavors into three categories; cheese, candied and gourmet. You’ll want to take advantage of the free samples as it is difficult to decide on a flavor. On my first trip I went straight to the gourmet choices. Most flavors here contain chocolate, caramel or other rich combinations.

I settled on their “heavenly crunch” flavor which is a best seller. They start with caramel popcorn, then cover with milk chocolate followed by a white chocolate drizzle. It’s way over-the-top and sinfully delicious. About half way into the very smallest size (called “snack size”) I cried uncle. This is a spoiled dinner waiting to happen.

Dill pickle popcorn enjoyed in my cubicle

On my second visit I went for the lighter cheese varieties. A sample of their cajun flavor didn’t appeal to me. With some reluctance I bought a bag of dill pickle popcorn. Again, this is a best seller but I had doubts. The first few kernels left strong dill flavors on the back of my tongue. But before long I was addicted! I snacked on it for the rest of the afternoon in my cubicle, wishing I had purchased a bigger size.

The folks at Heavenly make all 120 varieties in-house. A good portion of their business is sure to be corporate and mail order clients. They also might not be a bad choice for a party or event. On one visit I overheard someone asking about popcorn for a wedding reception.

Small quantities are certainly available but tend to be on the expensive side. Their snack size bag (about the size of a soft ball) will set you back five bucks for a gourmet variety. It’s an expensive snack no doubt. I’d probably only order this again if I were having a serious craving. The dill pickle popcorn is something I could see buying on a regular basis, and certainly in a larger size.

So pick up a bag of Heavenly’s popcorn and bring it back to the office. Even if they don’t enjoy it, you’re co-workers will still thank you. At least you won’t burn a bag in the break room microwave.

Heavenly Gourmet Popcorn is located at 875 N Main Street, Suite 305, right next to Taco Mac.

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

And you thought the burger craze was over.

Join me in welcoming the latest fast-casual burger concept de jour to Alpharetta. Metro Atlanta’s third location opened this week on Windward Parkway. You can find them in the shopping center with Einstein Bagels across the street from the HP campus.

Phil Wilkins owns the Atlanta Smashburger franchises and has plans for as many as 30 locations. Right now you’ll only find stores in Buckhead and Johns Creek. Kennesaw and Sandy Springs are next, although Wilkins told me they are looking at real estate in Cumming.

Smashburger has an interesting tradition of letting each large franchise owner create their own unique burger. For example, Chicago’s burger is served on a pretzel bun. Atlanta’s own burger features a peach barbecue sauce, pimina cheese, vidalia coleslaw and grilled jalapenos. By themselves, each ingredient is interesting. Mixed together, the combination is a pretty big mess that completely overpowers the burger itself. It would probably make a delicious sandwich without the hamburger meat.

And speaking of the burger… Smashburger gets their name from their cooking process. They take a ball of meat and smash it on the griddle for twenty seconds. The goal here is to create a sear while hopefully not squeezing every bit of juicy flavor from it. The burgers do have some sear but I would have liked more.

My biggest disappointment with the smashing is that I didn’t get to see it! If you’re going to give your restaurant a verb in the name, I want to see someone performing that verb. Sell the sizzle, right? With a closed kitchen, patrons are left to their imagination when it comes to the cooking process.

The rest of the menu contains a few chicken sandwiches, hot dogs and a salad or two. As for side items, I really enjoyed their Smashfries. These are shoestring french fries tossed with rosemary and olive oil. On my two visits this week the fries have been prepared well; crispy (even with the olive oil) yet soft in the middle. The rosemary seasoning really makes these fries shout.

Smash also offers milkshakes made with Haagen Dazs ice cream. The peach shake I tried as a sample was delicious and worth an order next time.

So after all the smashing is over and your burger is consumed, what’s the verdict on this place? It’s just an ok burger. Don’t expect some kind of transcendental experience that takes you to burger nirvana. Aside from the smashing thing, I don’t see a lot that separates this burger from many others available in this crowded market.

Disclosure: I received a free meal from this restaurant at their pre-opening event. You can read my disclosure policy on my about page.

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

GoWaiter is a chain of restaurant delivery services. Stephen Altenbach has opened a franchise in north Fulton. They went live this week with a handful of restaurants participating. My wife and I tried the service on opening day and were impressed.

The restaurant options are a little thin at this point in time. Their success will hinge upon increasing restaurant participation. On the flip side, I’ve witnessed several local restaurants express interest in GoWaiter on twitter.

My wife and I settled on Mambo Jambo as our restaurant choice. Ordering was simple on their webpage, like any online shopping experience for the most part. We picked a few Cuban entrees and added an empanada appetizer. The empanadas were an experiment to see how well they would travel. I was reasonably sure ropa vieja and black beans would survive the trip. Plus, Mambo Jambo makes a killer empanada! I scheduled our delivery for 8:00 and my order was a go.

As my time approached I started getting emails on my order’s progress. It was nice to know that the order didn’t disappear into an internet tube or something. I was told when the restaurant began cooking, when my driver arrived at the restaurant and when he was enroute. The email alerts are customizable, something I would imagine regular customers would want to turn off after a few orders.

My order arrived a little ahead of schedule. The driver introduced himself and shook my hand. What? The stoner-boy pizza delivery guy never shakes my hand! It was a very professional exchange that really was more like a waiter and less like a delivery.

Next he opened a huge insulated suitcase which contained my order. To say my order was still hot is an understatement. I’m pretty sure I burned the roof of my mouth with my first bite of black beans. The empanadas were still in reasonable condition, although they had steamed a little in the box.

All in all, it was a positive experience with no opening day glitches. A fee of $5 is very reasonable for a service like this, especially if they can boost their list of participating restaurants. I love the thought of getting grub delivered to my house from as far away as Crabapple or Holcomb Bridge. Saving the hassle of traffic is worth the five spot.

Also, watch these guys in the social media space as they seem pretty savvy with it. I’d suggest following on twitter @GoWaiter_Alpha

Disclosure: I received a promotional discount from GoWaiter on opening day. My disclosure policy can be found on my about page.

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

Sit at a table at Scootz and close your eyes. Imagine being surrounded by dozens of crazed and carbohydrate-fueled children. They’re giggling and laughing at Spongebob on television and playing video games.

I had this little flashback when first visiting Scootz. Yes, this place used to be a Cici’s Pizza. If you look around you might see something that reminds you of the franchise pizza joint. The pizza oven is still visible from parts of the dining room. The video games remain but their days are numbered, soon to be replaced by a private room.

A makeover has transformed this space into a much more comfortable eatery. The Scootz bar beckons visitors to the rear of the restaurant with a few flat screen TVs. Tables are separated by young little ivy plants, ambitious to climb a little trellis set up for each of them.

Like a lot of new, independent restaurants, the menu at Scootz is a hodge-podge of different ideas. It’s heavy on burgers yet includes a Maryland-style crabcake ($22.99 for the entree) made with lump crab meat. You’ll find fish and chicken sandwiches next to a handful of Italian entrees.

Grilled Chicken Sandwich with Parmesan French Fries

The menu didn’t make much sense until I met owner Scooter Aselton. “We’re trying to fill a niche between white tablecloth and everyday,” explained Aselton.

Burgers are a feature here and also a top seller. Their Scootz Burger ($7.99) is your basic, classic hamburger. They start with organic Angus meat, giving it a decent sear. It retained a decent amount of juice but not enough to make soggy the toasted bun. Burgers come to the table impaled through the top of the bun with a large knife.

I wouldn’t go so far as to say Scootz is “reinventing the burger,” a tagline they are using. However, they do an above-average job putting together a classic, well-made burger. It’s easily worth the visit.

The fish and chicken sandwiches at Scootz don’t get enough attention on the menu. The grilled chicken sandwich ($9.99) is made from organic free-range birds and is moist and tender. Topped with marinated and sauteed mushrooms, this sandwich is a winner.

The mahi mahi sandwich ($10.95) comes brushed with garlic butter. What steals the show is a lime aioli that comes on the side. There’s something about the combination of lime and fish that creates an explosion of flavor. I’d rank this fish sandwich among the best I’ve had in the Alpharetta area.

Chicken Piccata

On the Italian side of the menu, try the chicken piccata ($14.99). It features the same tender chicken from the sandwich. The lemon butter sauce is a little on the creamy side but still tasty. If you’re a Scootz regular looking for something different on the menu, I’d give their Italian food a try.

The talent in the Scootz kitchen comes from Chef Eric Banks. This Le Cordon Bleu graduate has a passion for baking. That explains the numerous pies on the menu. They even feature New Orleans style beignets, something not usually seen in our suburb.

Chef Banks is often in the front of the restaurant greeting patrons. His demeanor is friendly and genuine, asking for and usually receiving constructive feedback on every dish.

All in all, Scootz Gourmet Grill has impressed me on several visits. “I’ve catered to kids,” says Aselton of his restaurant’s transformation. “Now I’m ready to feed their parents.”

Scootz Gourmet Grill is located at 5905 Atlanta Highway in south Forsyth.

Photo Credit: Robyn Guy Photography

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

I’m a little embarrassed to admit this… I’ve never been to a Marlow’s Tavern. This successful metro Atlanta chain of upscale pubs got their start in Johns Creek on Old Alabama Road. From here they opened seven more locations. Somehow I’ve missed it all until about a week ago when the Avenue Forsyth location made its grand opening.

Marlow’s is in the old Little Azio’s space at the Avenue, directly across from the AMC movie theater. It is a prime spot, especially to host couples doing a dinner and movie date. More on this later.

Marlow’s has done an amazing job with the buildout. Even with a corner location and a fair amount of windows, the interior is dimly lit, creating a sophisticated atmosphere. Inside you’ll find a mix of high-top tables and booths yet few large tables. If you’ve got a big group, this might not be your place. The bar features a garage door that opens to the outside patio. It allows those in the sun the opportunity to belly up to the bar without going inside. It’s a neat set up.

If you’ve been to another Marlow’s location then you’re probably familiar with the menu. It features slightly higher-end pub food. The appetizers stood out the most to me in both taste and originality. My favorite by far was the shrimp and crab “nacho” plate. They take a single nacho chip and cover it with crab meat and a small shrimp. Next comes pepper jack cheese and a thinly sliced jalapeno. Under the broiler it goes until the cheese is golden brown. They are delectable yet pack a decent punch. I also liked the asparagus fries. The veggies are thin, lightly breaded and fried and come with an aioli dipping sauce.

The rest of the menu consists of burgers, sandwiches, salads and others. After setting the bar high with the appetizers, the rest of the menu was a big letdown. Their fish tacos, described as “infamous”, fell short. The tilapia was dry, begging for a sauce to rehydrate it. The menu promised a cream sauce but I didn’t taste much of it. By comparison, Cheeky’s around the corner has a much better fish taco.

The shrimp and grits earn high marks on presentation. Two grit cakes were set to balance at an angle to each other, then smothered with shrimp, tomato, greens and a sauce. Unfortunately the kitchen didn’t execute well on this dish as the greens were mushy and the sauce was under seasoned.

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention the kids menu. While I would not consider Marlow’s kid friendly for toddlers, your older children ought to be fine. The addition of surf and turf, on the kids menu, made me chuckle. Only in the affluent burbs can our kids dine on such an entree! Marlow’s kiddie surf and turf consists of a hamburger slider and a tempura fried shrimp.

Service was polite and hospitable but a little slow. If they wish to thrive next to a movie theater they’ll need to turn tables quicker so folks don’t miss their show. Keep that in mind if you’re considering Marlow’s before your movie.

Perhaps I’m being a little harsh on such a new restaurant yet these guys should have a lot of experience under their belt at this point. Nevertheless they probably need more time to work out all the kinks.

I was impressed with the crowd on a Monday night. It consisted of many good-looking young couples in the 20′s, something you don’t see a lot of in the burbs. Absent were the high school kids, who are normally thick as fleas at The Avenue Forsyth. It just goes to show that Marlow’s is likely to carve out a niche in this area. For a sophisticated and sexy date location before a movie, Marlow’s will become a great choice.  Once they hit their stride, I think Marlow’s will be tremendously successful here.

Disclosure: I received free appetizers from this restaurant during a pre-opening promotion. Read my disclosure policy on my about page.

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

Tasca’s been on my to-try list for many months now. As my birthday approached this year, I began dropping hints to my wife. Tasca was my first choice for a birthday dinner date. I had high expectations given the chef’s background and some early reviews. I’d say those expectations were half met.

Before Tasca this spot was home to another Latin restaurant called Sazon Grill. They didn’t last long but I recall they put a lot of money into decor. Sazon’s loss was Tasca’s gain as the place looks very similar. It’s classy inside and somewhat casual at the same time. They’ve expanded the bar yet at the time of this writing still don’t serve liquor. They make up for it with a decent beer and wine list.

I don’t often drink beer, but when I do, I prefer $2 import specials on a Saturday night. Indeed it’s true and it took me by surprise. But on a Saturday night they had imported beer from Guatemala on tap for two bucks. That’s hard to pass up. Their sangria is also refreshing and competitively priced. Stay thirsty my friends.

Tasca’s menu is almost evenly divided between tapas and entrees. I started with the scallop ceviche. It’s the perfect summertime appetizer. The scallops, tender and succulent, were swimming in a cool but spicy jalapeno sauce. A bit of roasted corn rounded it out. I’d order it again and again.

My wife tried the tortilla crusted mahi. They use red tortillas which make for a beautiful presentation. I found the fish to be a little too firm for my liking. My wife thought the roasted garlic in the sauce overpowered the entire dish.

My entree, seafood paella, fell flat. They use long grain rice, which isn’t terribly bad but isn’t something I’m accustomed to with this dish. It also lacked that layer of toasted rice that makes paella delectable. The shrimp, scallops and mussels were cooked properly as were the veggies. But in the end, this was just saffron rice cooked in fish stock.

Other Tasca reviews I’ve read mention the young wait staff. Our waiter was a teenager which set me back at first. But I found him to be prompt when necessary, surprisingly knowledgeable of the menu and even a bit funny.

Would I go back to Tasca? Probably so. There’s enough on the menu to hold my interest for a few more visits. If you hurry you can take advantage of a Scout Mob deal for Tasca that’s worth $20 off… or put another way, that’s ten Guatemalan beers!

Tasca Latin Bistro is located at 10970 State Bridge Road in Johns Creek.

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

The day Flippin’ Out closed was a tough one for me. They’d long been my favorite burger joint in north Fulton. I soon learned that the same owner wanted to replace it with a burrito joint. How dare they! I was initially furious then sank into a deep burger depression. I lamented the loss of their delicious onion rings and charcoal grilled burgers. Even many months later, there still is no substitute.

Maybe that explains why it took me forever to try Burrito Gorilla after they finally opened. Yet it took only one bite of their delicious smoked pork to make me (almost) forget Flippin Out.

And it was the pork that I went right after. I love roast pork in Mexican and Spanish food. The fact that they smoked theirs on-site was a serious plus. I ordered my pork on a torta, a Latin style sandwich. Sure enough, this was some serious swine. It punched with a solid core of smoke and a slightly chewy bark. The chipotle barbecue sauce complemented it well and didn’t cover up the flavor. It was topped with a bit of cole slaw and fried onions. The bread was a little too hard for my liking but it didn’t detract from the overall sandwich. All in all, this was a superior bbq pork sandwich. It would win a head-to-head battle with nearly any of north Fulton’s barbecue restaurants. Forget the Mexican and burrito aspect of this place for a minute. If you like smoked pork, you need to try this place.

I also tried as an appetizer their loaded chips with steak. The slices of skirt steak were tender and delicious. The guacamole was fresh but mixed to the point of being smooth. Take note if you’re a fan of chunky guac. The black beans were pretty good but my lunch partner found bits of black olives mixed in. Neither of us cared for this addition.

I probably should have tried the burritos. Be careful not to lump this place into the ubiquitous franchise burrito joint category. Their careful and creative use of fresh ingredients make this place so much more. Nevertheless, they offer a lot of burritos in three different sizes.

The Gorilla has two distinct challenges to overcome. First is location. I recently wrote about poor restaurant locations in Alpharetta. This location could have easily made that list. Secondly, they employ a very young wait staff. Some of Gorilla’s early reviews point to service problems. I didn’t observe any on my visit, but it is clear that the kids working here lack experience. It was a theme I saw on many visits to Flippin Out. Management clearly handles the kitchen well but they may need to train the front of the house better.

I like that Burrito Gorilla has a hip little chalk board listing all their social media endeavors, or “nerd stuff” as they call it. They list Urbanspoon, City Search, Facebook, Twitter and even their blog. They seem a little new to twitter as they have yet to even tag another user, much less carry on a conversation. A lot of restaurants have social media accounts set up that they practically ignore. But if you’re going to tout your social media presence, at least use it! Sorry, just a little pet peeve.

But all in all, Burrito Gorilla made a very positive impression on me during my first visit. They could be a serious contender in these parts. Also keep an eye out for their sister restaurant next door. Dal Cuore will be their new Italian concept opening very soon.

Burrito Gorilla is located at 2100 Ray Moss Connector near the corner of Jones Bridge and State Bridge Roads in Johns Creek.

Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.

Today’s review comes in the form of a guest review from Chef Jason Meinhardt.

I am very picky when it comes to breakfast. Most people are. After all, it’s the one meal that most usually make for themselves and they have developed their own preferences when it comes to preparation. The majority don’t care that their version of “over medium” is miles different than a trained chef’s idea. They want it their way and their way only. Trust me, I speak from experience on this. That brings me to my long awaited experience at Egg Harbor in Johns Creek.

I will get my ONE negative out of the way first:

My wife and I arrived around 11:30 on a Sunday expecting to wait. We were quoted 20 minutes. I was shocked. A foyer packed with people and a front patio filled with eager and hungry guests and only 20 minutes. Complimentary coffee was offered which is always a great touch. However, I’m glad I did not partake because our 20 minute wait turned to 45 minutes and I was already jittery. Trust me, I understand this business, I’ve been in it for 13 or so years and you can’t help a little misquote. But 25 minutes is a bit long. Everyone was extremely friendly and apologetic and you don’t want to scare people away by over-quoting but you certainly don’t want people getting antsy and irritated from an under-quote.

As for the food: very comparable to J.Christopher’s with a few major differences. I am, admittedly, NOT a J.C. fan. I never have been. The main difference Egg Harbor has is that most everything is homemade and fresh. You would think that would be the “rule” but I promise you, it is the exception. No powdered hollandaise, the produce is fresh (including the OJ and special OJ of the day: strawberry) and most important: eggs are fresh and cooked accordingly. Again, this is the exception and not the rule…unfortunately. I stayed away from the omelets because I am not a fan of the over-fluffy eggy variety. I like delicate folded egg and well thought out ingredients. We had basic breakfasts (recommended: the skillets w/ fresh ingredients) and everything was very well done (meaning “tasty and good” not burnt).

Everyone is very friendly at Egg Harbor from the hostess to the server and to the young lady who offered us OJ at the start of our meal. Just get that quote a little more accurate and soon you’ll have to quote people an hour +. If its worth it, people will wait.

The décor looks hauntingly familiar to a certain local and now closed breakfast restaurant and I had to keep looking around to see if any of my personal hen statues were nabbed when I wasn’t looking. It’s tasteful and very comfortable and most of all, clean. Overall, Egg Harbor is a very nice place to spend your breakfasts out. Prices very comparable and tables are freed up a little quicker due to the fact that you pay a cashier rather than wait for your busy server to ring things through. From one who knows this business too intimately, I wish the folks at Egg Harbor a lot of luck in a very challenging concept/cuisine. They shine above most and I hear that a second location is already in the works (this is their 1^st in GA but they have a few in the Chicago area). I just hope they don’t fall into the J.C. trap as they grow and they will certainly keep my business.

Jason Meinhardt is a chef and restauranteur. He was the owner of The Red Hen, a breakfast/brunch eatery on Windward Parkway in Milton. Check out Jason’s blog Food-A-Long and follow him on twitter @ChefJMMeinhardt.