Every Friday Roots in Alpharetta features an article on food and dining in a series called Foodie Friday.
I love grits. I love barbecue. If there were ever two things a southerner should like, this is it. But barbecue with grits? No. It’s not a marriage that’s meant to be. Sorry, that’s just how I was raised.
But big kudos are due to the WOW Food Truck. These guys take risks trying to crossbreed culinary traditions. It’s what makes food trucks so appealing to me.
WOW makes arepas or small little corn griddle cakes which are popular in Venezuelan cuisine. There are unleavened little grit cakes about the size of small biscuits. Sliced open they hold a number of savory fillings, most of which come from southern cuisine. Served food truck style, they are like slider sandwiches made with grit cakes.
The most popular is the smoked pork arepa. By itself, WOW’s smoked pork is delicious. It’s got a solid core of hickory smoke in every bite. I’d love to have an entire plate of it. There’s no barbecue sauce but rather some “kicky sauce.” This is a creamy sauce of pureed cilantro and jalapeno. It complements the barbecue well. There’s enough smoke and flavor in the ‘cue to stand up to a what otherwise would be an overpowering topping.
But the arepa isn’t the best vessel for delivering barbecue bites to your mouth. I’m accustomed to thick slices of fluffy Texas toast or yeasty rolls. Arepas are more dense. It has the effect of squishing the insides out when you bite.
So I ditched the arepa and tried “The WOW Factor”. This is a like a barbecue bowl. They start with a base of cheese grits then add the same smoked pork. Next comes an over-generous helping of barbecue sauce and a small drizzle of chipotle cream. The sauce was way too much, completely drowning my delicious smoked pork in its tangy mess. I lobbed entire spoonfuls into a nearby garbage can until I could recognize the pork and begin to see the grits underneath.
Barbecue and grits just didn’t work for me. Their ‘cue is finely pulled into short strands. But the texture of the grits isn’t congruent. It has an unusual mouth feel. But perhaps it’s me. I’m still warming up to the idea of eating shrimp in my grits – for dinner.
But again, kudos are due to WOW for taking chances with two very different cuisines. I know of no one else in town doing arepas. Even the now-closed Venezuelan-influenced Boga Taqueria didn’t have them on their menu. But arepas are worth a try if you’ve never had them. And their barbecue could stand on its own any day.
If you’ve tried WOW, let me know what you think. They are among the most popular and critically acclaimed food trucks in metro Atlanta. I must be in a minority because these guys didn’t wow me.
Wow makes regular visits to Alpharetta. They were at the Christmas tree lighting in December, the British car event and occasionally make mid-week jaunts up to our office parks. Follow them on twitter @wowfoodtruck for a schedule.